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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.